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"KOPLJE (THE SPEAR)", Mt. range Prokletije, Montenegro

After they had failed to climb route ‘Spear’ on Prokletije in 2000, Miloš Ivačković and Ivan Laković have finally succeeded. Its total height is about 700m, mark 6+ A2. The climb has not been repeated since Ante Bedalov and Stacimir Gostovic made it first time in 1972.

Before this attempt, many had tried and given up. Most of them came from Poland. Since they hadn’t succeeded dry rock, they kept trying to make first winter climb. However, they would make it to the ‘Spear Mouth’ entrance point at which they would give up. They try left from the priority route and this is marked by A3.

After the first success, many experienced climbers have attempted but could not make it. Four years ago, Ivan Laković, Dušan Branković and Miloš Ivačković tried to climb it applying Alpe style but with mountain bivouac. In spite of being overloaded, first 250m of hard route they completed quite fast but still had to give up due to accident in which Ivan broke his leg.  

Two years later, Ivan and Miloš plan their attempt again but due to unsuitable weather conditions keep postponing it. Finally, in 2005, well prepared they come to the Grbaja Valley with the idea to make it to the top in a single day. Their initial attempt lasted over three days but mostly climbed technically. This time, the weather was quite warm but still acceptable. They commenced at 05 am and arrived at North Peak at 02am. After non-stop climbing for 21 hours, they climbed down to the valley.

The Spear has finally been repeated but we are still waiting for the winter climb. As usual, once difficult route has been completed, ideas and new rocks start looking far more attractive.