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Lobuche east (6119m) is situated in central region of
Khumbu, approximately 15km south-west of Mt Everest. It represents a
real challange for well experienced climbers. Excellent physical and
mental preparation as well as previous experience at above 5000m are
preconditions for this Himalayan mission. Another precondition for taking
part is good understanding of the equipment and techniques to use it in
winter conditions.
DIARY OF
THE EXPEDITION
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-28.03.2006. "Lobuche East 6119m"
expedition commences today.
Sixteen
mounteneers led by Dragan Jaćimović are set to attempt
summit Lobuche East 6119m. We’ll be informing you about the
progress whenever we can and trying to conjure up the
atmosphere from this expedition.
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-29.03.2006.
This morning (local time),
after we have changed four flights via
Athens, Bahrein and Doha we finally reached
Kathmandu. We spent the entire day searching
local shops with the equipment for
mountaineering. At the end of the day we
could neither remember which shops we
searched nor where we’ve seen certain
things. Overall conclusion is that this is
the largest fair in the World when it comes
to mountaineering equipment. One can find
anything from a complete trash (at almost
literary free of charge) to worthy equipment
at more than reasonable prices or well known
brands at a very high prices.
So much so far. Jacim (Dragan
Jacimovic) has just called us to a dinner.
If the amount of food is similar to the one
we had for lunch I honestly don’t know how
my stomach will manage to digest it since it
has not recovered from lunch yet :-)
So far, all expedition
members are well and enjoy
Nebojsa Stojancic,
expedition member

photographs from Katmandu
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-31.03.2006. Kathmandu -
Lukla -Tok-Tok
We
woke up at 5am. At 6.15am our plane took off to Lukla. I
heard about this flight so many times. Yet, words cannot
describe it. Airplanes line up and “let the break off” one
after another one with 2-3 min distance. Some members who
have already been at this flight overslept it. On the
contrary, I like a boy in front of the sweets shopping
window, could not stop staring at Himalayan summits.
Short runway in Lukla surely was another excitement. After
short break in Lukla we left for Tok-tok. We followed risen
river Dud koshi, crossed hanging bridges several times and
enjoyed blooming cherries and rhododendrons. 45 min before
we reached Tok-toka we had a break for our lunch in some
lodge. Then we continued towards Tok-tok where kind Nima
welcomed us. Trip has exhausted us. Immediately after dinner
we went to sleep
Nebojsa Stojancic,
expedition member
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-01.04.2006. Tok-Tok -
Namche Bazar
After
we naturally woke up (first time after three days) and large
breakfast, we commenced one of the most difficult phases of
this expedition. We increased altitude for almost 800m. It
was exhausting route since we had to go up and down the
hills. At the end of the day we all took it well and got to
Namche Bazar by 16pm. We settled at lodge Kalapathar which
now became a traditional for Jacim’s expeditions. It was
raining this afternoon but we hope for better weather
tomorrow since we’ll have our first acclimatization at
4100m. There we’ll see who is built of what :-)
Nebojsa Stojancic,
expedition member
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-02.04.2006.
On our way to hotel "Everest view" we had our first
acclimatization. All expedition members feel well.
Nebojsa Stojancic,
expedition member |
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-03.04.2006. Namche bazar -
Deboche

On our way to
Deboche
Monastery Tengboche
On our way to the base camp, tracking from Namche Bazar to
Deboche is second difficult phase. To preserve energy, most
members hired porters.
We made our first tea break at river Dud koshi. It took us
2.5 hours to get to Tengboche monastery. After we had
stepped outside of conifer forest we clearly spotted Nuptse
and Everest. It looked unreal, like the movie.
Tengboche monastery is situated at a plateau which gives a
magnificent sight of the most colorful Himalayan summit Ama
Dablam. When coming from the valley, Nuptse and Everest are
just in front while monastery is on the left. It was my
first serious contact with Buddhism and Buddhist monks. I
was thinking on scenes from the film “7 years on Tibet”
while Himalayas were getting deeper and deeper into my soul.
After we had made short break there it took us further 15
min to Rododendron lodge where we stayed overnight.
Nebojsa Stojancic,
expedition member |
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-04.04.2006.
This
morning we naturally woke up which wasn’t the case earlier
days. From Rododendron lodge to Pangboche it took us about
one hour. We had our lunch break there and then continued to
Orsho.
Sherpas, yaks and expedition equipment were waiting in
Orsho. From now onwards there will be no sleeping in lodges
but tents and therefore we become a real expedition. If you
ever watched some photographs from Himalayan expeditions
you’ve certainly noticed famous yellow tents "THE NORTH FACE
VE-25". These are going to be our home while all the other
equipment will be carried by yaks.
Nebojsa Stojancic,
expedition member |
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-05.04.2006.
We set our trekking from Orsho to Dingboche at moderate
pace. In order to get good acclimatization we’ll be staying
at Dingboche for two days. Then, we’ll have a second
acclimatization climb to Nangar Tsang peak at 5080m |
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-06.04.2006. Acclimatization
climb to Nangar Tsang peak at 5080m
Today’s
acclimatization climb to Nangar Tsang was taken well by all
members let alone some minor stomach problems (consequence
of adjusting the organism to current altitude). All members
feel well.
Regards to all our countryman.
Nebojsa Stojancic,
expedition member
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-07.04.2006.
Slowly but surely we are advancing towards our final
destination - Lobuche base camp. A single step separates us
from there. This is Lobuche village at which we arrived
today. We left Ama Dablam behind. On our left Taboche and
Cholatse have risen. Trekking wasn’t exhausting and we could
certainly enjoy Himalayan beauty.
Tomorrow is our last acclimatization before we are setting
out to the Base Camp
Nebojsa Stojancic, expedition member
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-08.04.2006.
It
was a perfect day for acclimatization. Morning was fairly
worm and immediately after breakfast we were setting out to
the Gorak shep at 5300m. Jacim reckoned that the initial
idea to go to the Everest base camp was bad. It would have
taken too long and we would have become unnecessarily
exhausted now when we need to preserve the energy as much as
possible. Same as before, our team has taken this
acclimatization very well.
Nebojsa Stojancic, expedition member |
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-09.04.2006.

This
morning we left Lobuche village and set out to the Lobuche
East BC. It did not take much energy, the weather was nice
and the whole route took about one hour. While crossing some
frozen lake, we had another chance to clearly observe our
summit.
Base
camp is situated at a very nice location - at summit’s
foothill from which one can have a beautiful sight at
Cholatse summit. As the day “D” is coming closer, excitement
within out team is rising. Immediately after lunch Jacim
organized the equipment inspection which until now has been
unpacked. If the weather looks nice, tomorrow after midnight
(to be more precise at 02.00am) we will set out to the
summit.
After
the equipment inspection and several demonstrations on “how
to use it” most members went to tents for a good sleep.
Srdjan and I are adjusting satellite modem in order to place
new information at our site. As soon as we finish that we
are going to sleep until “tea time”.
Nebojsa Stojancic,
expedition member |
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-10.04.2006.
According
to the old good tradition, Sherpas woke us up at about 07.00
by bringing tea to our tents. Base camp is at western side
of summit’s foothill. Therefore it takes longer for the sun
to warm us up. This is why Srdjan and Aca were not lazy to
walk for about 150m away from the camp and have a nice chat
while having their morning tea at the sun :-)
While
sitting after breakfast and watching Sherpas packing and
loading the equipment I am thinking about tonight’s climb.
That moment has finally come. From some conversations with
team members I conclude that regardless of how many times
one has completed summit of this or higher altitude there is
always the same worry: “ I’m I going to make it?”
Yak's
caravan is off to C1 or to be more precise towards forward
positioned base camp E. At this moment I realized that these
yak's could go anywhere. I have a feeling that they would
easily climb Everest if someone said so. I wish you could
have seen them walking at rocky ground through a corridor
between stones!. It took us about one hour to get to the
place where our forward positioned base camp E was going to
be situated. It was more beautiful than the previous one
because it was next to the lake and the first thing to see
when you get out from the tent is Ama Dablam. While we were
at lunch, three Sherpas have gone to mark up part of our
footpath that we were to cross during the night and to fix
the rope at some more problematic sections. If everything
works we are commencing tonight.
Nebojsa Stojancic,
expedition member
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-12.04.2006.
This
morning, at 9.25 local time, the expedition „Lobuche East
2006“ reached the summit. One day earlier, due to health
problems, Pavle Ferarinov gave up. Three more expedition
members (Dragana Prosić, Slobodan Lalić and Srdjan
Lorencicni) gave up during the climb. The summit reached:
Dragan Jacimovic, Dusko Matic, Branislav Knezevic, Nebojsa
Stojancic, Kokan Novovic, Sime Grdovic, Dobrica Dabovic,
Suncica Cvetkovic, Aleksandar Urosevic, Basar Carovac,
Slavica Cosic and Sead Muminovic.



Photographs from the final phase |
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-13.04.2006.
We
left C1, passed former base camp and set out to the Orsho.
We left Lobuche East to other expeditions that would
hopefully improve the success score of climbing to the top
(currently less than 50%). From today onwards there will be
no sleeping in tents. In Orsho, we set at lodge with one of
the most beautiful sights to Himalayan summits. Being a
crossroad to many expeditions, it was interesting to observe
other people and caravans of yak's from our glass covered
dining room.
That
silence was broken by the song "We are the champions" – a
tape played by one of our sherpas. No doubt that it fit the
situation perfectly.
Nebojsa Stojancic,
expedition member

A t-shirt with the
expedition members’ signatures hung in Orsho |
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-14.04.2006.
As before, one of
the most difficult phases of this expedition was from Orsho
to Namche Bazar. With some short breaks, it took us 7 hours.
One was next to Tengboche monastery and there we had a
chance to view it. Firs time I got fascinated by the place
itself. This time I managed to see it inside.
Monks, mostly
children were more than willing to show us inside and take
photos with us. Of course we didn’t miss the opportunity to
steer all prayer wheels that surround the main building. I
do not know which prayers exactly we sent to Himalayan gods
but hope that at least one was for me to return to this
place. It is nice to believe that this is true and even
nicer if it materializes.
Around 17 hours we
finally arrived at Namche. We are looking forward for the
big party to commence at Paradise café. If I manage to stand
after this I’ll let you know how it was :-)
Nebojsa Stojancic,
expedition member

Monastery Tengboche |
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-15.04.2006. 08.25h
Yesterday’s party was
amazing. Jacim was a DJ and so he begun with Red Hot Chilly
Peppers while teams have been swapping at billiard table. In
fact Basko and Sead remained while others have been
swapping. Banchi and I lost twice with tiny difference. They
were lucky, that’s all. Also, table was a little bit steeped
:-) Party went on until early morning. I do not know if the
rest of our team is awaken but who cares, we are not in
rush. We stay here until lunch and then are setting out to
some Base Camp that halves or tracking to Lukla. If God
blesses us with some luck we will be in Kathmandu by 17.00.
All members are well.
Nebojsa Stojancic,
expedition member
Paradise
café: a celebration of successful expedition
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-19.04.2006.

The
last three days in Kathmandu were tense. You’ve probably
heard that Maoists and seven united political parties are
trying to get rid of the king (similar to our scenario from
late 1990s).
However, we used spare time to buy some bits and pieces,
souvenirs and to visit places of cultural importance such as
Pashupatinat (a place where Indians perform “burials” of
their relatives), old city and the palace, Monkey temple and
Budha’s stupa. I nearly forgotten, the photograph above
shows that all successful team members shaved to look like
actor Burdush. Funny tradion that we do not intend to break.
We expect the same from other expeditions yet to come in EST
organization.
Nebojsa Stojancic,
expedition member |
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-20.04.2006.
A general strike was
announced for today by all those against the king. However,
he managed to impose a police curfew which meant that nobody
was allowed to remain outside between 20.00 and 08.00 hours
(not applicable to tourists). In the morning, similarly to
the “underground resistance against the occupation” members
we barely dragged ourselves to the ministry of tourism bus
which in turn, took us to the airport, using some auxiliary
streets. The moment we thought that the worst had been left
behind, the airport staff sabotaged us by “go-slow”
(announced) making our take off late for 2.5 hours. As a
consequence we missed the flight from Doha to Athens.
Luckily, we traveled by the top airliner (Qatar airways),
who, at their expense, set us at a very good hotel in Doha.
If everything works, we are continuing tomorrow. Expedition
“Lobuche East 2006” traveling by JAT should land at Nikola
Tesla airport in Belgrade by 22.25h.
Otherwise, they
really look after us here in this hotel. Some members who
lost 6-7 kg during the expedition may even completely
recover.
Regards from Qatar.
Nebojsa Stojancic,
expedition member
Doha, capital of Qatar
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-21.04.2006.
The expedition "Lobuche
East 2006" has successfully ended. Tonight, at 22.30h
members have landed at Belgrade airport completing a big
adventure.

Reception of the expedition at Nikola
Tesla airport in Belgrade |
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