NEWS FROM MANASLU BC
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07.10.2008.
Now it becomes clear to us exactly what we managed to do up there above the clouds. We found out that there were over 350 climbers in Manaslu BC, from all over the world. Some of those people have all 14 summits above 8000m under their belt, and I have met several people who need only 2-3 summits to achieve this goal. Statistics say that only 7-8% of all climbers manage to reach the magical Manaslu (8163m)! Out of several expeditions who did reach the goal, we are by far the most successful (80%), and with our 10 climbers on the top of Manaslu we present a real surprize for everyone. But those are just numbers, that don't mean anything. This expedition is made of real people who put a lot of strength and effort to reach the end of the road. I hope that they have learned something on that road and that they will pass that experience to those who are eager to learn. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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07.10.2008. Miraculously, we managed to arrange the helicopter Mi-17 ride from Sama to Kathmandu with the Nepaleese army. This miracle cost us a lot. But, when you have plane tickets on a flight home for the day after tomorrow, then you can't think about the money too much. I didn't know that the helicopter can lift so much weight! Someone said: "This is the riskiest part of the expedition!" However, everything went fine. Our pilot obvously does his job well. We entered the city all smelly and dirty, how else? This dirt and heat bother us, and making us to breathe heavily. We have just managed to get used to the Himalayan air, and now we have to aclimatize again to these normal conditions. I've met many friends in the city, who already heard for our venture. The news arrived before us. Now, we have to shave, cut our hair, and we could even take a long shower. We don't want to scare small children when we get home. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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06.10.2008. Last night, as soon as everyone arrived to BC, it started snowing! It was snowing all night so we pack our things this morning surrounded by thick fog. While we were descending towards the village Samagaon, the snow was following us until we descended below 4000m. And then, we saw trees, grass and Himalayan streams everywhere. Everything smells like mountain herbs. What a change! Every ending of an expedition is the same. You are comming down to peaceful landscape, in most cases happy and pleased. Somehow peaceful and fullfilled looking at things around you. You know that one great work is behind you, and that is enough. Yesterday, I went to the Himex camp to thank Russel and his Sherpas, because if there weren't for their attempt previous day, I'm not sure we would have been this successful. We should be realistic, not like some in BC Manaslu who are saying that they had no difficulties to climb this summit. More ridiculous are those who said that they climbed Manaslu without the help of Sherpas. I have only one question for them: who set the ropes for you to the top? Tooth fairy? There is no signal for BGAN in Samagaon, but I walked a little bit so I could get the signal and send you the photos. You deserved it, because your support was enourmous. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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05.10.2008 Couple of minutes ago the rest of the team arrived to the BC after successful climb to Manaslu (8163m). All of them managed to climb, all of them came back safe and sound, all of them tired, but happy! This could easily be the end of my daily report. What more can I write? That I waited last night until 21:30 for the last team member to get into the tent at 6900m? That I've been nervous until all of them arrived to the BC? That I haven't slept for two nights? That I cried of happines when they climbed the summit? You already know all that. That we have tried to save the life of one alpinist last night, but that, regretfully, we failed. It is sad that after entire night of efforts, at dawn one life is lost. I only know he was from France. Does it matter where he is from? The only thing I know is that I am in debt with this mountain. A lot. Yes, I am aware of that. So far, I have never receaved so much wisdom as I have from the "Mountain of Spirits" in past 30 days. It is hard to describe it. I only know that I am a different person than I was when I came to this mountain. I didn't want to bother them tonight with photos and video clips. We will send them tomorrow. Let them rest. They've earned it. |
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04.10.2008 15:00h (Local time)
They have all descended to C3 (7450m) and they are
now descending to the upper C2 (6900m). We expect
them to call around 16:00h from C2 and to be don for
today. Judging by their voices over the radio, they
sound happy and pleased with their success. But let
them be a little longer. They are up in the clouds
at the moment and I can't see them. We will wait
until they return to C2.
04.10.2008 11.30h (local time) All members of the expedition succesfully climbed the summit, and they are now returning to C3. They are all together, slowly descending, and they all feel well. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader
04.10.2008 10.00h (local time) At 9:30 a.m. Kristina (Nina) Adjanin, an American Bob Jen, and Sherpa Tindu climbed the Manaslu summt (8163m)! The rest of the team is right below the summit and I expect them to get there soon, as well. As soon as they reach the safety of C3 tent (7450m), I will send the detailed report. No screaming, jumping and tears yet!!! A difficult part of the job is yet to be done. Little more patience please!! Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader
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03.10.2008
17:00h (local time) They gave up on one difficult part of the route, not because they couldn't climb but because they were too slow up until that moment and ran out of oxygen. They had to go back. I need to make a plan with several back up plans and tell them tonight. I think I know what needs to be done, but I have to make it work. Especially here and now. Tomorrow. There are so many questions: Are they ready? Is the weather forcast for tonight correct? Will there be enough oxygen in the bottles, as I planned? Will we have to postpone the ascend because of the wind?... Everything that was up to me, was done: they have the best chance to climb than anyone this year. It is their turn now. I brought them in a position only 10% of climbers had this year. It is their job to climb, and mine to take care of their safety. Only a crazy person would try to predict the outcome of a ascend to a mountain like Manaslu, but I think that they will succeed tomorrow. I believe in my team. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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02.10.2008. What a difficult day. I though I might not write the report today. Since 4 o’clock this morning until noon, I was following the weather forecast on the mountain. I could even write a book about it. Some things are hard to write, since I do not understand some things. I completely understand the mountain, but I will never understand some people. We had a deal with C3 (7450m), but all other expeditions gave up. There were only us left and the Russel’s expedition. At the end, half way to C3, we experienced problems with avalanches on our route, so we took a break of 2-3 hours in order to reach the decision. Sherpas began to doubt, and we ran out of time so that even if we had decided to go on, we would have reached C3 after dark, which was out of the question. That is why I decided they should go back to 6900m and make a camp there. Also, I the meantime, another team went from 6500m to 6900m so they would be together with the first team. Since we have only two more days of nice weather, I want to try and reach C3 (7450m) tomorrow and then try to climb the summit the following day. I am currently negotiating with Sirdar and the Sherpas about my idea. I know it’s a bit of a problem for them since the route to C3 is not easy. All members of expedition are feeling great, and anxiously waiting for my decision tonight. It’s not easy. But it’s possible… Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader
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29.09.2008. This is one of the most important dates of my life. That is why the first group left the BC today with the intention to climb the famous Manaslu. I hope that today will be the lucky beginning of a great achievement, having in mind that since 1956, less than 300 alpinists climbed this summit. Several hours ago, Sherpas informed us that C2 didn't exist any more. Everything was lost. There's nothing we can do about it, so we need to let it go and try to organize ourselves the best we can for tomorrow. By the way, it is snowing again, but it's not as terrible as it was before. According to the weather forcast, it will snow again tomorrow, and then we will have four days of nice weather. We hope that it's true. There is one more problem, and that is C3 (7450m), but we will think about it in the next couple of days. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader
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28.09.2008. We spent the day in preparations. Oxygen masks are being checked, seeping bags dried, and all around people are jumping from joy because they are leaving for the mountain tomorrow. Usually, if you have to wait for a long time and then get 5-6 days of nicer weather, you have a lot to do and you have to ne quick. Which is not very easy. Several expeditions had C2 on 6400m (we are at 6700m) and they received an information that they camp is under a thick layer of snow. They dug around but with no success. They have also lost all fixed ropes and aluminium ladders from C1 to C2 ! It means that they can do it all over again, except they have no time. Early tomorrow morning, our Sherpas will check what happened to our camp C2 (6700m). A lot depends on it, since we left some equipment, gas, food and oxygen bottles up there. We have these thing in stock down here, but we don't have enough time to organize the transpotration to the camps. Namely, on Sunday (5th October) the weather will be awful again, and the season will be over. Interesting this mountain, isn't it? But, we are keeping our spirits up. Tomorrow the first team will go to the C1. Starting from tomorrow, a lot of effort will have to be put, from our side and the Sherpas, so that we would stand the chance to climb this summit. That's the way it is. Nature is too powerful and we are too little. But we are not poor spirited, there is always a chance. If you think nice thoughts, you will see further... Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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26.09.2008. I have just finished my daily exercise. Twice a day you take a shovel and throw the snow as further as you can from your tent. This morning we had about an hour of clear sky on the south. That brought up hopes up a little bit, but afterwards it started snowing and remained unchanged for the rest of the day. How come it doesn’t get tired ? If the saying ‘the night is darkest just before the sunrise’ is true, then we could hope for some nicer weather… As for our tents in C2, we don’t think that anything is left of them. However, its not just he tents, its some personal belongings we left there to take with us when we climb to the summit. Now, everything belongs to this mountain… And us ? We are still waiting. We hope its not going to be in vain. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader P.S. We miss Dragan, Sale, Banchi, Shime, Keno, Ron …people who have always brought good atmosphere to my expeditions. Maybe they would have brought clea sky over Manaslu. Who knows… |
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25.09.2008. It seems that it is not working. Since last night till this afternoon, another half of meter of snow fell on our BC! This morning I had difficulties to get out of my tent. Sherpas from C1 called us and said that the situation is even worse up there. Route to C2 is completely changed from all the snow. We can no longer climb, we can only swim through the snow! Today, three more expeditions left BC. The others have second thoughts, and we are trying to find allies so we could try to climb in case the weather changes. Hope dies the last, at least that’s what they say. We have another 12 days until we return to Kathmandu, so we will wait. Although our chances are very slim. Worse the situation, our team is more resolve to succeed. I finally understand why the number of people who climber Manaslu is so low. The mountain is beautiful, but unfriendly. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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22.09.2008. We have sent the other team in C1 today. Although it is still snowing, the route to C1 is still safe. The others are bored in BC, so they decided to spend the night on 5800m. Simply, it is better to to be on the move, then lying in the BC for days. The rest of the team is here, and we are all waiting for some nicer weather. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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21.09.2008. Morning sun was only trying to trick the impatient ones. Those who were late for the aclimatization quickly went to C1. I took the telescope and saw layers of fresh snow in seracs from BC all the way to C2. All our tents were covered with snow, and none of the fixed ropes were visible. South from us, the clouds showed that it will snow again this afternoon. Of course, it did. I hope that everything will be ok with those who went to C1. We will send the Sherpas again tomorrow to our C1, so wecould determine the damage. So far, we can not give any predictions. We can only wait. Weather forcasts are not reliable enough, so we pay no attention to them any longer. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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20.09.2008. It's boring to write about the snow that is falling for days, isn't it? It's snowing so badly today that we have to clean our tents every two hours, otherwise they would collapse under the weight. What bothers me the most is the situation in C1 and C2. We have 11 tents up there, and a lot of equipment. I would be happy if the half of them remains in place. The other problem here in BC is related to solar energy. Battery charge has been stopped since there was no sun. Only the athmosphere in the team is excellent. This morning we were joking at our own expences and our current situation. I am still optimistic, since I have been in simailar situations, and I know that two sunny days will be enough for this snow to disappear. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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19.09.2008. I did't even have to write a report today. Nothing is new on Manaslu. It is still snowing and we are still in the BC. The only difference is that today is a little bit colder and windier. We are in the middle of thick fog all day long. The weather forcast says that this cyclon came from Indian East coast, and that it will "probably" calm down in the next few days. But up here, we feel worse each day. So far, the mountain does not give us any hope for conquring the summit. If the opportunity occurs, we will do our best to use it, if not- we're going home. Something tells me that everything will go for the better after 23rd September. We'll wait for few more days... You can download new video clip here>> Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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18.09.2008. Last night, the weather dramatically changed. The snow started to fall around midnight and is still falling as I'm writing this (it's 4 p.m.). We had to bring the first team from C2 to the safety of BC as soon as possible. They've managed to get back about two hours ago. They have made a short break in C1, and went on. They came tired and wet from the snow. The other team came back to the BC before them, because there can be no ascend in this weather. They were a little nervous because they were not able to finish aclimatization. They think of this as a race. But, I understand them, they have no patience and no experience, they would all like to climb to the summit immediately. Even though they knew that there have been dangerous avelaunches today, they still wanted to go to C2, at all costs! It was difficult for me to explain them how dangerous this is, but I managed somehow. Now, everything is fine, everyone is in BC and will stay here for another two days until is stops snowing. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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17.09.2008. Finaly, the sun is shining on our camp. But only for a little while. Between 4 and 10 a.m., we had some wonderful weather which we used the best possible way. The first team managed to climb the most difficult route on the way to C2 (6700m). They managed to get to 6200m, but then they had to slow down, since the snow started falling. They called in through radio from C2, saying that they are tired, but pleased for climbing the route. I think we have chosen the best possible moment for climbing this route. Now, everyone is up there, and after they spend the night, they are comming back tomorrow morning. The other team has left BC today and went to C1. They called in to say that everything is ok, and that if it remains so, they will go to C2 tonight. They are waiting for my instructions to go on. By the way, the situation in the BC is tense since there are two different teams. Many things need to be kept under control, and provide information to both Sherpas and the climbers. Some people are sending us messages saying we should give the names of the climbers in teams and their locations. There is a reason why we are not doing that. Each day, the mental preassure is enormous. Manaslu is no joke, and they know it. They need to be left to think about the they ahead of them. The photos we are sending are still from C1. Tomorrow afternoon, the first team is returning to base with some new photos. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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16.09.2008. All the same on the "Mountain of the Spirit".It is still snowing, and avelaunches happen so often, that we feel surprized if we do not hear any noise. Those are not even avelaunches any more, those are waterfalls of snow. This morning, around 4 a.m., the first group was supposed to start climbing towards C2 (6700m).But they didn't. Too much of wet snow fell on critical route points, so I have decided to keep them in C1, for another day. I am expecting that the sun shows up today, and that tens of thousands tons of snow falls into glacier where it won't be a threat to us. The other group never left BC Manaslu. We have postponed everything for a day. We are looking at Manaslu and training our patience. Now we will see how strong we are as a team. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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15.09.2008. It is still snowing. We have been expecting some nicer weather today, since he have held a Pudja ceremony yesterday. We are hoping that the prayer Lama from Sama had said will reach the Gods they were intended to.Ceremony lasted for 2 hours. When our sirdar Kame organizes the Pudja, everything has to be by the book! Beside Changa, we also drank Revita, we became the favorite drink of Sherpas. This morning, after an early breakfast, the first group of 6 climbers went to C1. Early tomorrow morning (around 4h a.m.), they will start ascending towards the C2 (6700m). Until they are trying to overcome one of the most dangerous details on the route, another group of 5 climbers will go from BC to C1. The other group will go on Wednesday to C2, when the first group comes back after the night spent at C2. Why this way? Because it is too dangerous to send them all together to C2 at the same time. This way, they are quicker and more efficient, so me and the Sherpas are able to keep the situation under control. The team is ready and in good spirit. The only thing that worries me is large number of climbers in C1. Too many climbers on the rope can be a big problem, which is why I advised them to start earlier in the morning. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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14.09.2008. Synday. Heavy snow has been falling since last night. Grey clouds all around us. Our day was no better either. Even though he knew I was busy with preparing and organising the final ascent to C2 (6700m), Gafa invited me to his tent to talk. I knew what he was going to say, but I had to let him make the decision. He is much older than me after all. I respect that. He said that he has to give up this time because "the mountain doesn't like him". He didn't aclimatize well, and even caught a cold in C1 so he feels that his health could deteriorate if he continued. He asked me to arrange his return home as soon as possible, so he already left BC Manaslu, with a porter and went to the village Sama. He will take the helicopter to Pokhara, tomorrow, and then bus to Kathmandu. He feels fine, but is very sorry that he has to leave us. He, himself said: "There is no writer who could describe the atmosphere in this team. Thank you for everything". We are moving on. We will send you 2 video clips today, taken in C1 using the mobile phone Sonny Ericsson c702. Clip1 & Clip2 Other than working flawlessly in these extreme conditions, we can use it's GPS device to map the precise route of the ascend with all positions and altitudes. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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13.09.2008. Around 11:30h, today, the whole team came back from C1. After two sleepless nights on 5800m above sea level, they look great. I would have expected that they will suffer from headaches and fatigue, but it seems that thay have, so far, aclimatized well. This morning, we have started fixing
ropes towards C2 with joint forces. Using the right route, of
course! Namely, one of the expeditions who came amog the first (I
will not name them, even the best can make mistakes), set the ropes
on an entirely wrong route! Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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12.09.2008. Today was a nice day to have a look at the route from C1 (5800m) to C2. The weather was on our side this time. Namely, the weather was nice above 5000m, but below- some rain, snow and sun, one after another. Our first night at C1 went fine, apart from the fact that some needed to adjust to the new altitude. Yesterday afternoon, all expedition team leaders held a meeting where they agreed on setting the fixed ropes. We have hit the jack pot: we will be setting the ropes from C1 to C2 (6800m) together with two other expeditions! As you can see, the previous C2 (6200m) has been cancelled since it's location is not safe, so we will have to secure 1000m of the most difficult part of the route. We will start working on that the day after tomorrow. I am expecting the return of my team tomorrow with a lot of new photos Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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11.09.2008. It's been snowing all morning. With no intention to stop. The team already left for C1 and will stay there for two nights. We've been in touch through radio, and all reports are more than satisfying. The only problem is that due to this snow, several avelanches occurred at the East Rock of Manaslu. We are far enough from the danger, but the noise keeps us awake. Instead of photos, this time we're sending you the video >> Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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09.09.2008. Yesterday afternoon Zdena joined us! His arrival caused euphoria in BC. It was so touchy to see team members welcoming Zdena like a family member. It didn’t take long for a good atmosphere to get created in this expedition. Now, our team is completed here in BC. Today? Again one of those days when one feels better to stay in bed and sleep. This morning after we had completed breakfast we departed towards C1 (5800m). The aim was to reach chosen altitude and immediately return to Manaslu BC (4820m). The one who didn’t climb glacier under so intensive sun doesn’t know what the hell is! It was subjective but looked like we had been few hundred meters higher. In addition, glacier was simply packed up with crevasses which urged us to be extremely couscous. To make the situation completely crazy, we had to climb ice blocks twice. What makes things unusual are fixed rope bolts set day before that under the intensive sun started to come out. We had to replace them to more secure location in order to continue. This takes time. On the way down to BC we cooled down under heavy snow. Somebody commented: “ Here in Himalaya if you feel cold you can always dress up but if you fell hot you can do very little!” Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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08.09.2008. It is usually sun that wakes us up but his morning tents were unusually dark. It was snowing during the night and tents got covered by at least 10 cm of snow. Some tents got deformed under the snow. Snow usually gets melted by the lunch time. This will be the case until the end of the expedition. Manaslu is famous for intensive snowing. We dearly hope that it will not be the case in high altitude camps. We spent some time analyzing our route today. It seems that the most dangerous section happens to be between C1 (5800m) and C2 (6200m). There is an option to move directly to C3 (6800m). It all depends on weather conditions and state of seracs at that altitude. Daily, we witness two to three avalanches at Eastern Face of Manaslu. I am trying to identify main problems in the route. Then we will work out one by one. We also fixed a single rope today for the members to refresh elementary knowledge in climbing along fixed rope. During the next few days, we plan to revise some techniques used when climbing glacier, specifically procedures when climber drops into crevasse. Practice makes it perfect. I know that my people know it and that they hate practicing what they already know but up there in high altitudes at low pressure, brain doesn’t work very well and some actions have to be automated. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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07.09.2008. Since our base camp is at eastern side, raising sun has walked us up early. All climbers slept well. View from the base camp reaches almost 40 km! This is the most beautiful base camp I’ve ever seen. Manaslu summit is right behind us. It looks merciless and impossible to climb, like there is no safe way to the top. Still, it is too early to talk about it. It is only our impression from the base camp. By the way, we assembled electronics today, solar panels, radio stations, etc. It was sunny until 2 pm. At hat time, same as every day, clouds appear and it starts snowing in the afternoon. Day after day, monsoons are weakening which gives me hope that the weather will stabilize in days to come. We tasted Zijo’s prosciutto today. Thank you mate, it was perfect! From tomorrow, closest relatives may call expedition members on satellite phone number that you’ve already got. This number will be switched on every day between 14.30 and 17.00 European time. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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06.09.2008. We departed toward base camp at approximately 9 am. It was perfect day to stay in bed. Persistent light rain didn’t stop drenching our equipment! We could not control it. Above 4500m it was snowing. Something for everybody’s taste. As we know, Zdena remained somewhat slower than others in recent days and I decided to stay with him. Other team members climbed to the base camp as fast as somebody was chasing them. Zdena climbed to 4400m and then decided to return. He needs more time to acclimatize. We agreed that he needed one day rest and then to join us here in base camp. Base camp is currently covered in snow but it will melt very quickly. All members feel well. I believe that the first night in base camp will pass without any headache. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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05.09.2008. We had exhausting day yesterday. Today we rested in Sama village. Some took the opportunity to wash socks while others walked to the neighboring village at lower altitude. Nina managed to find local school and even play volleyball with children! We will finally move to base camp tomorrow. Next report will be sent on Sunday after our solar batteries get charged. This is why we are sending our first video clip now. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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04.09.2008. It was really difficult day. We woke up earlier than usual in order to set off towards base camp as soon as possible. The night was rainy and morning wasn’t promising at all. In spite of that we departed according to plan. Two hours later clouds disappeared but then we faced another problem. Breathing in high moisture isn’t easy. There is always something to bother climber! Sunny weather causes sweating. Needless to mention rain, snow and extreme cold. However, surrounding nature cures all problems. Such beauty makes climbing 1350m in altitude, up and down much less difficult. It took us approximately 6 hours to get to the BC (4850m) and 3 hours to return. All team members withstood new altitude very well but Gafa climbed somewhat slower than others while Zdena returned to the Sama village from 4200m. Acclimatization doesn’t work at the same pace for everybody. Hopefully, all climbers will get used to it in the next few days. Plan is to rest tomorrow. The following day we are making final move to the base camp. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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03.09.2008. One more acclimatization day has just passed. We walked to the village called Samdo (3850m) and returned back. All climbers feel well. I believe that they like such modest ascending. The weather is usually sunny until 14hrs and then it becomes cloudy. Another part of our expedition equipment has departed for the base camp today. Tomorrow will be a difficult day. Our plan is to climb up to the base camp (4800m) and return to Sama village, our temporary camp, in the afternoon. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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02.09.2008. We slept well at current altitude. Immediately after breakfast we left towards Samdo village. At half distance crossed, we returned to search for the path towards base camp and see the lake that gets created at the bottom of the glacier. Flora is incredibly rich at this altitude and one can enjoy in different trees, flowers, bushes, etc. Our base camp is situated at about 4800m altitude. This morning we managed to spot few tents up there. It seems far away. We aren’t rushing. The aim is to achieve good acclimatization. We will remain here for the next two to three days. Information that I exchanged with other team leaders allow for some optimism. Current conditions in the mountain and weather forecast are good. The mountain has its final say anyway. Our Sherpas and 72 porters leave for base camp with out equipment tomorrow. They will assembly tents and other equipment necessary for the infrastructure and then return to Sama the following day. In the meantime, we continue our acclimatization. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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01.09.2008. Usual go – no go activities today. We kept waiting for the helicopter to fly to Sama three times and fourth time we got in at approximately 15 hrs. I was afraid that clouds would have delayed our flight again. Luckily, Russian aircraft took us to the destination routinely in about 50 min. Serdar Kame and my friend Henry Todd welcomed us in Sama village. They had arrived ahead of us and reserved good lodge and camping site. Sama is situated at 3530m altitude and looks magnificent! Famous Sama Gompa is at the hill surrounding the village. Looking above this one enables spotting our objective – MANASLU (8163m). Looking at it from the village is horrifying. Nevertheless, proverb says that first impression in these activities usually isn’t accurate. Weather is fine, it isn’t raining and to make things even stranger, Manaslu isn’t covered in snow that much taking into account that summer monsoons have just finished after careful observation of the glacier, I am convinced that it is somewhat too dirty for this time of the year. It seems that we keep paying price to global warming. One must be careful. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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31.08.2008. We have already anticipated that departing Pokhara and getting to Sama Gown wouldn’t work easily. Morning brought fair weather but first three helicopters only took the expedition equipment to the base camp to make sure that it arrives ahead of us. If such weather remains we are leaving with our personal equipment tomorrow morning. Nevertheless, our stay is enjoyable. There was enough time to hire a small boat and practice some rowing in the lake. We also paid visit to small Hindu temple situated in small island and then continued to the other side of the lake to see the “large waterfall” that we learned about from a Nepal salesman we rented our boat from. In fact it was a mountain stream joining the lake from approximately 4-5m height! The most beautiful things that raise adrenalin are summits Anapurna (I, II, III, and IV), Machupuchre, etc., visible in the distance early in the morning. All members feel well. I have a feeling that hey thoroughly enjoyed a day stay in Pokhara. Getting hold of and packing the equipment just before the departure back in Kathmandu, accumulated nervousness. Atmosphere is a lot more relaxed now. This is exactly what we need. Dragan Jacimovic Expedition Leader |
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30.08.2008. Heavy rain has forced us to change the plan slightly. Adjusting to the Nature is the only way out. After we had completed our breakfast we commenced our journey to Pokhara, place situated on the lake having the same name. Approximately six hours of not so comfortable journey gets easier with beautiful surroundings. The amount of green color inevitably makes one feel better. OK, heavy moisture in the air doesn't help either. The lake and surrounding panorama are really beautiful. However, evaporating surface and clouds prevent one from taking good photographs. Plan for tomorrow is to try to get to Sama Gown (3550m) by a helicopter. The weather has forced some groups to keep waiting here for this transport for two days. We hope to be luckier that them. Dragan Jacimovic The Expedition Leader |
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Raining doesn't stop. Monsoon winds keep bringing thick and dark clouds above Katmandu valley. City also looks gray but empty too. Tracking season hasn't started yet. Luckily we are in the warehouse packing the equipment. Plan is to commence our journey towards base camp tomorrow. First part of our team has left five days ago. Most of the equipment is already there. Some communication and personal equipment remains to be packed. I completed climbing permissions in the Ministry of Tourism today. It didn't take long taking into account that our agency from Katmandu had prepared necessary papers two weeks ago. My team is gradually getting used to local weather conditions. We are going to exchange tropical for cold mountain climate soon. Then acclimatization follows again. It is obvious that people feel a bit nervous prior to traveling to Manaslu. It will be demanding climb, requiring loads of energy from every team member and it will remain like that every day. If some of that energy gets invested in building team spirit, our chances of successful completion of the expedition would be considerably enhanced. Dragan Jacimovic The Expedition Leader |
| 27.08.2008. Expedition Manaslu 2008 has started. |
"Considering the overall current situation, Chinese authorities have decided not to grant climbing permissions in Tibet this year. This is valid for all world alpinists. Therefore, our planned expedition Cho-Oyu (8201m) had to be cancelled.
Two months ago we commenced preparations for climbing expedition Manaslu
(8163m). Due to fact that this summit is considerably harder and more dangerous
than Cho-Oyu (8201m) we have reduced number of alpinists that will attempt
summit. We have chosen more experienced and those who took part in our recent
expeditions. You can use this address to get informed about progress of the
expedition and send support messages. We commence our journey 27. August. Return
is planned for 10. October 2008."
Extreme Summit Team
