Everest 2009

06.04.2009. We have arrived in Kathmandu! These people are on some strike again. It is usual thing here. It is obvious that economic crisis has stricken here too. Very few foreigners could be seen in the city. Shop owners are constantly complaining that sales have dropped and there are no buyers! This is an ideal chance to purchase cheap equipment. Our entire luggage has arrived. That does not happen very often!

Border between China and Nepal has opened today. I heard that some have already crossed over into Tibet.

Expeditions will be waiting until 10. April. Then we will go into the mountain too.

Due to daily restrictions in electricity and hence high usage of petrol aggregates, pollution in the city is enormous. Team members have spent day either in purchasing additional equipment or in sightseeing tours

07.04.2009. My previous judgment about air pollution over here was too moderate. In summary, we are suffocating! I cannot wait for our journey towards Tibet to commence. Remaining parts of the equipment are purchased. I am particularly proud that we managed to get hold of Millet shoes size 50 for Ivan! A ″big foot″ man, what can I say? He got a bit nervous since our back up plan was to shorten his toes so he becomes size 44 J. I have also tested electronic equipment today. It seems that everything works fine. It is usually like that untill one gets to BC and there problems start materialising. Roberto and Simona have arrived this morning. When Iris joins us tomorrow, we will be completed.

08.04.2009. Iris has arrived this morning. We are complete now. Team is in good spirit and people socialize in the hotel back yard every evening. Few beers get consumed but we tolerate this since we know that time yet to come will focus people on the summit only. It is desirable to relax now. Chinese authorities have confirmed border opening for expeditions too. I am going to the embassy tomorrow to sort out visas for Tibet. We are quite busy preparing BC equipment every day. It is not easy to pack two lorries of different things. The entire content is to be listed. Once in the mountain, there will be no shops in the neighbourhood :)

I got hold of an interesting information (i.e. photos + story directly from witness) about Everest. Namely, last winter there was no too much snow and dry season started a bit earlier. Current result is that Everest is almost without snow! South coll is without snow and ascending towards Balcony as well.

Lo-tse face the upper part represents naked stone! The oldest local people do not remember such view. Global warming prepares its bill, no doubts. I hope that by May there will be snow, since it is much easier to climb with crampons.

09.04.2009. I wouldn’t like to ignite panic but we do face some complications with Chinese authorities. They issued few new rules and I hope to get it sorted by tomorrow. We have packed food for high altitude camps today. There is something for everybody according to individual preferences. Few days ago I told Čele to buy cargo tub similar to one that Basko had when he climbed Everest. To make this funnier, Čele went to the store and bought cargo tub with Basko’s name on it! Therefore, cargo tub that used to belong to Basar Čarovac will be on Everest again.

Sherpas from Pangboche have arrived today. Their leader, always with constantly smiled face, Sonam climbed with us two years ago.

I am a bit worried about this unplanned delay here in Kathmandu. It is not difficult to pick up some viral infection.

10.04.2009. We were supposed to get our visas done by today. Nevertheless, authorities in Lhasa failed to send our permissions to Chinese embassy in Kathmandy.

Since, the embassy doesn’t work over the weekend, we are commencing our trip on Monday. Current situation is funny and tragic at the same time but we do not give up.

In the last moment, CTMA in Lhasa send an official confirmation by fax in which they informed us about changes and encourage us to be patient. When our team is concerned, we have completed all planned preparations and are waiting for the border to get openned. We are not alone in current situation. There are 46 expeditions also waiting to cross into Tibet. As far as I understood, those climb Cho-Oyu, Shishapangma and Everest.

All members feel well and nobody has any health problem.

Dragan Jacimovic,

Expedition leader

12.04.2009. Due to unplanned circumstances we have spent the whole week in Kathmandu.. At the beginning, we considered that disappointing but now I see it as a ″surprise gift″ purely.

One can describe Kathmandu as completely chaotic, smelly and deprived but I would not go wrong if I describe it as fusion of unbelievable beautiful surroundings and hospitably, warm, happy people.

On arrival, the Expedition Leader demanded that we relax, enjoy and accumulate energy. I have a feeling that we successfully carried out this command!

Nevertheless, the most important is that we have successfully crossed the streets so many times and every day in a complete traffic chaos. The moment I think that the passage is clear I realize that I am watching the wrong side and increase chances to get hit by bus, car or riksha! Luckily, drivers keep using horns all the time. If these do not damage your hearing, you soon realize that they are a lot more effective than the traffic lights and zebra crossings.

Therefore, the recipe for driving fast is hand on the horn and foot on the gas pedal.

We leave tomorrow. Challenges ahead make me very excited but I am also looking forward to return to this city. At least to digest one mint lemonade for which I am still desperate to discover recipe.

13.04.2009. Fully described communication with local administration would fit novel form only. However, the most important: We leave today! First overnight stay is planned for this side of the border in Nepal. Tomorrow morning we are entering Tibet. Good news from Lhasa is that the Communication Officer has been sent to Zangma and there will be waiting for arrival of Everest expeditions. This afternoon, Himalayan Guides staff will collect our visas and then will be driving the whole night to enable us to cross the border in the morning. Usual life story is that success requires good team and support.

During the expedition, I will do my best to persuade all members to say something for the site. Some commented that they would prefer climbing Everest twice rather than writing!

This is a New Years Eve morning since people of Nepal celebrate New Year 14.04. Therefore, yesterday night we were surrounded by cheery atmosphere, music, fire, decorated gardens and most beautiful outfit (much different from us). Everest expedition does not start at BC but with departure in Belgrade. We are constantly prepared for changes in plans including the one that happened yesterday - news that we had to spend another day in Nepal. It was not planned but the embassy and state bodies do not work over New Year days which mean that procedure over issuing visas gets shifted one day forward. Last night we spent in a small place called Dhulikhel, approximately one hour driving from Kathmandu. Since other expeditions waiting for their visas stayed in this place too, we experienced some difficulties in getting available beds. Part of our team spent the night in tents.

There is no surprise and we manage to adjust to everything. We will spend day tracking and paying visit to nearby monastery. All members feel well and are in a New Years mood. Getting away from polluted streets of Kathmandu into this healthier air and more beautiful environment is huge advantage anyway.

15.04.2009. Due to current circumstances I reckon that tomorrow morning we will finally enter Tibet. Today, we either leave for Kodari or remain here in Dhulikle village.

Report about road towards Kodari will arrive this afternoon. We got some information that the road is blocked due to some strike or whatever!

We may try during the night. At that time strikers go for sleeping and then come back in the morning! One has to deal with small obstacles every day. However, continuation of the expedition depends on these.

Nevertheless, our team is optimistic and accepts inevitability that should not upset too much.

16.04.2009. There will be stories about this day. Two steps forward, four backwards! We woke up at 03am to avoid road blockages but Nepalese go to sleep early and wake up even earlier and than bring chumps right onto the road for which there is no alternative. Luckily, at about 04am there were only few protestors who didn’t dare to stop us. Right behind them there was a completely burnt down bus hence, we couldn’t trace owner. Obviously, the bus stood against crowd, somebody dropped Molotov cocktail, and this is the epilogue. Somehow, we managed to pass and get to the border in Kodari. Then, we had that famous disciplining by the oncoming imperia. Of course, we had to accept such treatment and lined up, one by one as if we were in military. First check point, then second and third and the moment I thought we would finally step into China, authorities went to lunch break! Then we spent 30 minutes in nobody’s land.

After we had finished all those procedures, we arrived in Zangmu (2600m). I wanted to continue straight to Nyalam (3600m) but Communication Officer informed me about road works and said that the it would be opened at 9pm. Very funny, no doubt!

This is how I got my chance to send this message via “extra fast” internet in Zangmu. In fact, we may stay here tonight. Everything and nothing is possible! I am beginning to dream peaceful Sagarmatha base camp.

18.04.2009. Finally, somewhat more relaxed atmosphere. I see other expeditions in some “speed” when I have just decided to slow down. Some have already left for base camp while others plan it for tomorrow. What about us? We had our breakfast at about 9am and then continued towards Tingri (4300m). After four hours of driving over rough earth roads and a few stops for doing one’s need, dusty and dirty we arrived into this small military place. Sona and Bola have welcomed us. We got straight into our rooms and then had lunch. Our Sherpas have already left for base camp yesterday. Good planning is the key. Namely, I met a guide in Kodari who was talking about going straight to base camp. In spite of that, he is still here! He says that Sherpas have arrived together with them. If they had left for base camp today, they wouldn’t have where to sleep. Hence, we are together again. Sometimes, short cuts could take longer. You should see his face when I told him that we plan to stay here for three nights!

Tingri has never been dirtier. The skin gets soaked into dust and numerous dogs make walking down the streets harsh. I counted to 100 and couldn’t recognise more than half places. Of course, there is no internet connection here and we use our satellite link for communication. Thanks to Comtrade team who set the equipment. Everything works fine.

19.04.2009. In Tingri, sunrise happens at about 7am (Chinese time). Nothing looks better than dawn in Himalaya. Today, we’ve done one more acclimatisation ascent up to 4650m and then returned to Tingri to have lunch. We have arrived to this altitude somewhat fast and some climbers still feel slight headache but it will pass away before we commence towards BC. Tomorrow, we plan to remain here and do one more acclimatisation ascent. In spite of numerous problems to cross Tibetan border, I feel satisfied with current developments. I do not worry very much about days yet to come.

20.04.2009. After a long night in Tingri, we do sleep better. We have repeated aclimatisation walk today. It would not do any harm. It is important to keep moving. Team took today’s ascent a lot better hence I believe we can continue tomorrow. We had some problem on two laptops since somebody brought a virus. It has spread to camera’s external memories too! This is why we could not send photographs. Problem has been sorted in the meantime. In addition to virus problem, two PC chargers working at 19V also have burnt out. I had to order those from Kathmandu. Other PCs work at 12V and are not compatible with retired ones. Tomorrow, we continue towards base where camp has already been set and our Sherpas are expecting us.

21.04.2009. Finally base camp! Such a beautiful day. Sagarmatha welcomes us with the crown on the summit. Sherpas have smiley faces and the cook prepares tasty food. Ivan commented: “If I had known that it was so good I would have come ten days ago even if I had a headache every day! A friend from another expedition visited me and said that all climbers are mad since thay have been waiting for yaks for ABC for the last three days. I was polite and didn’t lough at him but this scenario is well known over here. People blame Chinese because they are used to pressing buttons for instant services. Several members from my team would attempt summit even tomorrow. Nevertheless I am well experienced and know how to deal with such people. I sent Sonam to book Pudja ceremony for a day after tomorrow while Bola went to the Communication Officer to book yaks to come in three or four days.

It is easy to say „slowdown, patience“. One should also know the power of magnet above us that attracts body and soul. People change so much that some are not possible to recognize over here. This is part of some personal test that everyone has to pass. But it takes time. This is somewhat difficult to explain to a computer generation whose life motto is “I want it all and I want it now” just by pressing the button. I hope that lessons they learn over here will help them in the future.

22.04.2009. We could not send the report yesterday because RBGAN did not work in base camp. Is it due to some Chinese interference or satellite problem, we do not know. I will try to climb moraine of Rongbuk glacier tomorrow and send from there. My team went for a few kilometers walk down to Rongbuk monastery. While they are getting their acclimatization Muri and I have remained in base camp to set base antenna, solar panels and other communication equipment.

I had a meeting with the Communication Officer to organize some dates for sending yaks for transportation to ABC. Nobody has some serious health problem excluding adjusting to new altitude and not so good sleep. We will have Pudja ceremony tomorrow and for the following day we plan more serious acclimatization excursion in the mountain.

PS. Getting these reports may only mean that I found some spot in surrounding hills to send signal from. Unfortunately, it also mean that I will not be able to climb it every day for the purpose of sending reports.

29.04.2009. Today, after seven days of silence the Expedition Leader Dragan Jaćimović got in touch and confirmed that climbers are in BC and everything is fine. Problem with sending reports remains. Dragan hopes they will get this problem resolved soon.

06.05.2009. Today I have received another phone call from Dragan Jaćimović in which he informs us that everything is fine. They are set to go to ABC and hope that communication equipment will be functional soon.

Nina phoned from BC. They attempted North Col yesterday. Some succeeded some did not. They all returned to BC except Roberto and Simona who will remain at ABC in the next couple of days trying to attempt North Col in order to spend night over there. Acclimatization, for the rest of the team is finished. We will be resting now and preparing for the summit days.

The expedition leader Dragan Jacimovic phoned us today via satellite link. He confirmed what Nina said. Acclimatization is finished and now they remain at BC waiting for good weather to attempt summit. They need an opportunity in form of 2 to 3 days of good weather. Recent days were not so good at the summit since it was snowing. Currently, the most important thing for them is to recover and accumulate physical and mental strength for the summit days. Attempts to establish internet communication are definitely given up. Summit days progress will be reported hourly if possible.

We have received the latest weather forecast from BC today. Worsened weather forces us to postpone summitting. A few days of good weather are expected on 27. May. All climbers feel well and cannot wait for the summit day.

The expedition leader, Dragan Jacimovic called today and informed us that his team has commenced summiting phase. They have reached the North Col today. Tomorrow they are setting off towards C2. Depending on weather conditions, team plans summit day for the night between Wednesday and Thursday. All other expeditions that have attempted Northern route have returned which means that there will not be crowds on the way up. We all hope that the weather forecast is accurate, that we will have a window of opportunity lasting 2 to 3 days and then we can personally take care for the rest. Team is well prepared and acclimatized. Now, it all depends on weather.

We heard news from Dragan Jaćimović, the Expedition Leader today. Plan was to climb C2 yesterday. Unfortunately, bad weather postponed climb for today. However, strong wind forced them to return to C1.

They will return to ABC tomorrow. Then we will make the decision on what to do. We either wait for another opportunity or give up completely since the weather forecast is not encouraging. The most important is that all members are healthy and feel well.

29.05.2009. The expedition leader, Dragan Jacimovic called today. All members safely returned to ABC yesterday. Dragan, on his way from ABC down to BC faced strong wind and deep snow today. There in BC, he’ll welcome other expedition members tomorrow. The decision to give up the summit attempt has been brought. It was hard decision but lives are the most important. Everest will remain where it is and will be waiting for some other time. There is a lot of new snow and the wind maintaining its speed of 80-90 km/h. In such conditions climbers would be exposed to unacceptable risk. Dragan plans to produce a detailed report in days to come. He will try to describe what was happening in the mountains while not having contact with them and reasons for his decision to give up.

02.06.2009. It has ended the way it started. After all, it is better to forget this season. Of course the experience we gained is of immense value for the future. Everything else should go straight to recycle bin!

China is serious state but issuing just 400 visas took until 15. April. On your question “why” officers answer by pointing fingers towards Beijing.

We arrived in BC 21.04. It seemed late but taking into account that most summit days happen by the end of May we had enough time. Unfortunately, it wasn’t usual pre-monsoon season but strangest since people climb Sagarmatha from the north.

Bad lack started from early days in BC. First, problem with the satellite. Then they promised to send CD with some new software that would sort out stated problem. CD had arrived but it had wrong content. Few days later, the new one arrived but in the meantime one expedition member had downloaded cureless virus into our system. We managed to spread it to RBGAN modem too. Hence, you received no reports until the end.

Dragan Jovović, on his first climb from BC to ABC made an awkward slip and fractured his right forearm. For him, this was the end of the expedition.

During second climb towards ABC (6400m) and acclimatization towards North Col (7150m) heavy snowing threatening us with avalanches hence we postponed the climb. There we lost further several days although we didn’t pay much attention since we had a buffer of about further 20 days to get to the summit. My idea was to provide people with best acclimatization so fully prepare them for the exhausting summit days on the northeast.

Then we returned to BC to get some good rest. I got the information that China Mountain Guides who fix ropes will begin summit assault 18^th May and that this day will be the opening of the season. Those who arrived earlier than us rushed towards the summit. We arrived in ABC 19^th May just to be closer to the “fire” and watch the developments of the situation in the mountain.

Between 18-22^nd May, about 100 climbers summitted but more than 50 were Chinese. Three or four climbers died (not sure) but very many climbers had frostbites on their toes and/or fingers. At that time we noticed huge discrepancy between weather forecasts from different agencies received over satellite and real situation on Sagarmatha. In order to make decisions, one has to decide who to believe.

After we had arrived in ABC, my initial idea was to plan summit day for 23^rd or 24^th May but something was wrong with the weather and I gave up such idea the very same day. Later, when those days arrived it was obvious that we cannot climb according to plan. I started searching for different weather forecast until the end of May. Almost all were identical. There was no difference between those free of charge, available on the net and those to buy from Meteos, Switzerland that cost €2000. Absence of weather forecast information about northern side of Sagarmatha until the end of May was the only common thing for those sources. But we did not know this. Since I am not seer I simply had to trust somebody in order to bring decisions.

Best weather for summit day was forecasted for after 27.05. Hence, we commenced from ABC towards North Col 25.05 (7150m). It was snowing heavily and was not easy to get to C1. We intended to climb to C2 (7150m) during somewhat worse weather in order to position ourselves for summit days during better weather. Since mental and physical exhaustion up there is worse, it is more important to avoid windy days.

Next day, 26.05. snowing continued and the wind almost fully stopped. Clear but windy day was forecasted! The alarm switched on. Can we continue and still trust weather forecasts? Snowing didn’t stop until that evening hence climbing that day was risky. I wanted my team to spend another day in C1 (7150m). The next day was sunny. From C1 to C2 (7700m) 15 expedition members and 10 Sherpas commenced climbing. They departed at 12.30h 27.05 because the wind was supposed to weaken in the afternoon. Climbers started using oxygen and new Top Out masks right from C1. It was supposed to be an easy section to climbing, wasn’t it.

Sherpas had difficult task to locate fixed ropes buried into deep snow. After passing half way they started shirking. In the meantime, strong western wind started in the region between 7300m and 8000m! Bellow and above was completely quiet. This obviously scared Sherpas and probably caused commencement of their boycott. In spite of the wind blowing at 40km/h and occasionally striking at 80km/h, part of the team was advancing shoulder to shoulder towards C2. At that moment I still had faith in our success. More experienced part of the team stopped searching for fixed ropes and continued climbing along the cliff in alpine stile. Of course I was scared but had faith in their experience. Second part of the team got scared and wanted to return to C1.

Perhaps, huge discrepancies in technical knowledge and experience between climbers were the hardest problem during the ascent. The wind was getting stronger. Stories are different. Some describe this as gale others saw no way to survive! Subjective impressions depend on previous experience but personal courage too. While being on radio link with climbers, I was collecting cliff information. Something was telling me that the weather report forecasting days 28^th and 29^th May with an ideal weather for the summit, wasn’t accurate as it currently wasn’t. To verify monsoon movements I used satellite phone to contact my friend in Kathmandu. He told me not to expect those famous ten quiet days in the north because of weak monsoon and way to strong western and northern winds. This makes weather conditions unstable and the weather forecasts so inaccurate. We can expect worse and worse weather followed by strong winds and heavy snow. Climbing season has ended.

Therefore, even if make it to C2 it wouldn’t help much. I called climbers and leading Sherpa and told them to return to C1 immediately. Leading climber was at approximately 7550m. In the mountains, I have never felt worse than that moment. I knew that we were not going to have a chance for a summit. If we only had a chance!

I know that the most important thing is to return climbers home alive and healthy. I did it but has any of you ever been in a situation to make such decision? We keep telling stories that the way towards the summit is more important than the summit itself and that the life is most important. Still, one has to call people and tell them “it is over, let’s go home”.

I did my best to make the expedition successful, helped all who had problems, had hundreds of conversations in tents listening to different problems, giving advices if the situation allowed help but I didn’t accomplish our goal. I do not feel ashamed to the mountain since I got taken in by the highest of all but I do feel ashamed to people I led, people who trusted me unquestionably. Until now I managed to justify peoples’ trust and all of them would return home happy.

Now I see great disappointment in their eyes, sorrow and anger for no summiting. I keep hearing bad words from people I know for years, seeing vulgar need to blame somebody believing that such behavior would straighten things…

That is OK. We all have a right to show real face at this moment. However, there Is Someone above Seeing everything.

I didn’t name anybody in this report. It is a mather of principle. It takes time, may take a year to see clearly what was happening during the expedition. This is emotional time and I could make wrong judgment if I characterize some people.

I used to take full responsibility for every sentence ever written by myself. It doesn’t change now.

I am writing this knowing that there will be different comments from different expedition members. This is why internet exists, to allow everybody to write anything. It is up to you to trust it or not.

After the great success of the Everest 2007 expedition, preparations for the new expedition, Everest 2009, have begun

Extreme Summit Team with its expedition leader Dragan Jacimovic, is gathering the team for this next great adventure

However, being dedicated to this sport for the last twenty years I grasped why summits above 8000m seem so untouchable to most mountaineers and alpinists.

People who successfully climbed these summits immensely contributed to general stereotypical opinion that they happen to be someone really special. We all know that mountains only are special and remain in there place forever while humans are mortal…

If you are no longer privileged as one of those who climbed above the clouds, if people do not look at you with great respect in their eyes, then your ego may seem endangered and the only remaining option is to be against all those who want to climb “up there”.

This is why I would like to demystificate all those stories and help your dreams to become reality. «HAVE A VISION NOT CLOUDED BY FEAR» said one Indian tribal chief.

However, being completely fearless and commence adventure into the unknown without preparations, is just reflection of madness not bravery. Then, how to commence climb onto summit above 8000m?

It means that you have already been introduced to correct use of equipment and sniffed the air above 7000m. It means that at least once, you steeped onto some Himalayan summit and screamed as loud as possible to make even Beijing hear you!

Without this kind of experience, your attempt to climb Everest may easily turn into nightmare!

Second, what are you trying to prove by climbing the World highest mountain - Mt. Everest (8848m)?

If the only aim is to satisfy your ego, show others that you can do it or get title “Top Meritorious Sportsman“, something happens to be wrong with your motive.

Try not to cloud your view towards the summit by pernickety, greediness and hidden agenda, and then the summit may just appear on its own…

Be honest to yourself. Without clear and sincere aim you may “get lost“towards the summit.

Third, It is too late to observe in C3 (8300m) only that you haven’t worked on your physical preparedness enough and that you are too short of breath to attempt the summit. Such things are irreparable.

So, exercise regularly, monitor your body and do not push it too hard! If you fell like squeezed lemon after your training session it does not mean that your training was good.

On the contrary, continue such „exercises“for a month and instead of progress, your preparedness will suffer a downfall! Work on endurance of muscles and general aerobic endurance.

Forth, a Team Spirit! To join the team, reaching compromises have to be acceptable to you. Good mood in the team represents 50% of mission completion. This is not some empty phrase but many times proven experience. You need to know that by helping each other you improve chances of reaching the summit.

Dedication to a common mission and extreme environment would help you get closer. Life is a miracle.

Fifth, having trust in the expedition leader is of vital importance for successfulness.

Sometimes, leader’s decisions from your point of view may seem unreasonable and illogical.

But the leader knows that lives of expedition members are more important than reached summit.

The leader knows your passion for reaching the summit because the leader had been in your shoes not vice versa.