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Expedition Everest North
Crest will follow the same tried and tested routine of flying to
Katmandu, and then entering Tibet overland at the border crossing on the
Friendship Bridge in Kodari. This will enable us to arrive
to base camp at the very start of
the season and allow us to have the
maximum
possible length of time to make our ascent. It also enables a
very gradual increase in altitude and allows team members to acclimatise
at a controlled rate, without
imposing sudden abrupt changes in altitude on them.
Beyond the border post at
Zangmu, the expedition will drive to Nylam and the Tibetan plateau,
where the team will spend 2 nights acclimatising at 3,800 meters. From
here, the road climbs steadily eventually
getting to the plateau proper. Then, a full two days rest is
taken at Tingri. Now the road swings towards base camp, where we arrive
after a day's drive. On the way to BC
we cross the Pang La, where we stop to get a view of Everest,
with the North Crest also visible but just. This is one
out of many mountains in a
magnificent vista of the Himalaya, which spreads over the entire
horizon, also covering Cho-Oyu and
Makalu, among many other Himalayan Giants.
Once
we arrive to base camp, the Sherpas
set off to establish advance base camp (ABC). Having gained more
acclimatisation, we follow after a few days and make a leisurely ascent
using intermediary camp. This is to ensure
very gradual ascent to our camp at 6,440 metres, nestled below the North
Col. To this point, our journey will have been achieved
by terrain vehicles and then by
yaks.
From here, we start earnest climbing.
Above advance base camp, we will have 3
camps:
• Camp One - 7,060 metres on the North
Col, located on the snow.
• Camp Two - 7,700 metres - on
the rocky
shelves.
• Camp Three - 8,300 metres - Summit
Launch Pad - on the rocky ground, but sometimes on the ledges cut into snow,
depending on snowfall in the preceding season. The camp gives access to
the North East Ridge, which leads to the top, via the Three Steps.
Having been in ABC for a few
days, slowly allowing our bodies to adjust to the
new atmosphere, we will make our way
up relatively easy (but physically tough),
to snow slopes to the North Col, at 7,060 metres. This is a
comfortable camp location, with great views across the North Face and
back over the upper reaches of the East Rongbuk Glacier. However, it is
not expansive, and our relatively early arrival
to Tibet should ensure a good site
for our camp. The plan is to spend one night on the Col, to allow
sufficient exposure to the altitude in order to kick-start our bodies to
prepare for the further extreme altitudes
that are yet to come. For some, this might be enough. For others,
a trip to 7,700 metres might suit their acclimatisation profile better.
There would be no point in
climbing higher towards Everest at
this stage - as body would deteriorate rather than strengthen.
Therefore, by leaving Sherpas to
fulfil the task of preparing and stocking the high
altitude camps, with tents and
oxygen for the climb, the main team will make its way slowly back to
base camp, for a sustained period of resting
and preparation. Finally, once all camps are established, and everyone
is refreshed, acclimatised and well fed, we will move back up the East
Rongbuk glacier to our home at advance base camp.
Experience Required
To join the Everest team you
will need to have extensive mountaineering experience. This should
include previous high altitude experience of at least 6,000 metres,
mixed with a multitude of Alpine mountaineering and, preferably, you
will have taken part in a previous 8,000-metre expedition. We have found
that those who have previously been to an 8,000-metre
summit have a considerably better
chance of getting to the top of Everest. Exceptionally, climbers who
have not had the chance of climbing an 8,000 metre
summit but have climbed mountains
such as Huascaran, Aconcagua, Denali or similar, could well consider
Everest if they have the necessary commitment and determination.
Although fixed ropes will be
used where appropriate, expedition members must have the ability to
climb mixed ground graded AD, or equivalent, un-roped and be adequately
competent and self-sufficient to move between and to live in high
mountain camps un-aided or supervised.
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Day 1: |
Outbound flight
Departures |
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Day 2: |
Arrive
to Kathmandu
We are met at the airport
and taken to the Hotel Thamel. This is an excellent hotel
positioned well away from the bustle of the city centre. Its
friendly people do their best to make us feel at home. For those
joining the expedition in Kathmandu, all team members should aim
to meet at the hotel on this day.
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Day 3: |
At leisure
in Kathmandu
While the leader
attends a formal briefing in the Ministry of Tourism, you will
be able to explore this fascinating city. As those who have been
there before will know, it is a wonderful mixture of crowded
bazaars, temples and shrines, in a blend of ancient, colonial
and modern architecture. Today, the expedition leader will also
check everyone's equipment, as Kathmandu is the last opportunity
to buy anything missing. |
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Day 4: |
Drive to
Tibetan border
A six-hour journey on a private bus takes
us through Nepal's central valleys before turning north to the
Friendship Bridge at Kodari. We will overnight in a lodge in
Kodari. |
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Day 5: |
Enter Tibet
An
expedition's entry into Tibet can be a long process. Therefore,
we must leave Kodari early in order to arrive at the border
customs post before lunch when it closes for a day. As the
customs officials work-time is in tune with central Beijing
time, this can be a tall order! All loads need to be moved off
our Nepalese transport, carried across the border (across the
Friendship Bridge) and then re-loaded on to the Chinese
transport, waiting on the other side. Fortunately, this is a
well-practised routine for our Sherpas, who will handle this
transition seamlessly. |
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Day 6-7: |
Initial
acclimatisation period
The road cuts
through the Himalaya and we witness the incredible transition
from lush green foothills to arid mountain desert. The road
winds up the side of a huge gorge to emerge short of the Tibetan
Plateau at the small town of Nyalam. We will stop here for lunch
before continuing to our acclimatisation camp. Just beyond the
main town of Nyalam, we enter a picturesque valley, which is
home to several small farming villages and hamlets. We make our
camp near one of these in an as sheltered spot as possible. From
our camp, we walk to the nearby hills, which provide enjoyable
outings to help us acclimatise. |
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Day 8: |
Drive to
Tingri
The journey
now continues and we take another step to higher altitudes. We
travel as far as Tingri where we stay in a local lodge. The
views on the way are impressive, especially as we move onto the
open expanse on the Tibetan plateau. From here views of Everest
and Shishapangma stimulate the imagination for what lies ahead. |
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Day 9-10: |
Acclimatisation
Using our lodge as a base, we rest in
Tingri for 2 days and 2 more nights, whilst exploring the local
surroundings. We will use the vehicles for forays further a
field in order to get as high as possible, whilst returning to
the lodge each evening to allow the altitude to soak in. |
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Day 11: |
Drive to
Everest Base Camp (5,200m)
Today we leave
the main highway that travels towards Lassa, and head south
towards Everest. We drive over the Pang La, which will hopefully
give us our first good views of Everest, some 40 miles away.
Then we descend to a village in the valley floor, and continue
up the valley to base camp. The road becomes rougher and
rougher, but the scenery becomes more spectacular as we pass
each corner. Finally there is the awesome North Face of Everest,
at the head of the valley before us. From base camp, it does
seem very close, but it is still 12 miles away. |
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Day 12-16: |
Acclimatisation and local exploration
We spend 4
days at base camp to allow our bodies to adapt to the altitude.
This gives us plenty of time to enjoy the views, and photograph
Everest. For those who are feeling up to it, there are plenty of
hillsides to scramble up, and we can walk down the valley to
Rongbuk Monastery, 5 miles / 8 km away. Another worthwhile
objective would be to reach Tillman's Camp, an idyllic spot
beside the majestic Central Rongbuk Glacier, which offers
staggering views of the north side of Everest. It is important
not to overdo it during this period - there will be plenty of
opportunity for exertion later! We must exercise during resting,
while drinking plenty of fluids and enjoying the base camp food. |
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Day 17: |
Trek to
First Intermediary Camp (5,680m)
At last, with yaks carrying our supplies,
we set off on foot towards Everest. The trek starts easily
enough, crossing the pebble floodplain of the Rongbuk River,
then weaving along a good path between the glacier and the
valley side. After about 2 hours we reach a good viewpoint, then
turn steeply up to the left, leaving the main central Rongbuk
valley. This takes us up into what seems to be a fairly small
subsidiary valley, but it soon opens up to reveal the amazing
pinnacles of the East Rongbuk Glacier. It was the discovery of
this approach in 1922 that provided the key to climbing this
side of Everest. We camp in a very pleasant spot, with plenty of
space, no more than 2 hours after having turned into the East
Rongbuk Valley. The camp is located on the right bank,
overlooking the river below, and is short of the moraines and
the toe of the glacier that lie ahead. |
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Day 18: |
Trek to
Second Intermediary Camp (6,088m)
Crossing small streams and moraines, we
gain the opposite side of the valley and contour along it until
the valley makes a very definite swing north.
Here will be the site for our interim camp
for future journeys between base and advance base but, for now,
it marks the climb onto the glacier proper and the start of the
Magic Highway. On subsequent journeys up the East Rongbuk
Glacier, we will be fitter and better acclimatised, enabling us
to complete the trek to ABC easily in two days, hence this will
become the site of a single interim camp located where the
glacier sweeps north. |
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Day 19: |
Trek to
Advance Base Camp (6,440m)
Today,
we take a relatively
short, a few hours walk to ABC.
The re-appearance of
Everest is a pleasant distraction during the final climb and, as
you round the corner towards advance base camp, you can see the
whole of the North East Crest, from the Raphu La to the summit.
At a distance
of 4 kilometres, 2 kilometres higher altitude, the shimmering
triangle of snow, that highlights the summit over and will issue
its siren's call, until your footsteps cross it! |
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Day 20-56: |
Climb
Everest
It is not possible
to be prescriptive about how the mountain will be climbed from
this point on, as it will be matter for the leader and the team
to judge. For those that
have been to extreme altitude before, we would aim to be as
flexible as possible to allow for people's preferred
acclimatisation routine. For some, this may mean climbing as
high as camp 2 on the North Crest, as soon as possible, before
diving back to base camp for a long rest. Others might want to
remain longer in ABC, taking several trips to the North Col and
sleeping there overnight but not
going any higher.
Whatever routine is
adopted for acclimatisation, as soon as everyone is happy that
they have achieved an optimum state of readiness, the team will
return to base camp for a long period of
resting and eating.
From Camp 1 on the
North Col, the route turns to follow a long snow ramp, the north
crest proper, that rests like a gigantic flying buttress
supporting the upper reaches of the mountain. Although never
steep, this section is prone to wind, sweeping icily across the
mountain.
From here, the route
moves on to broken rocky ground of shattered shale, as the north
crest cast off its layers of snow. However, the route remains
relatively easy angled, although the gradient increases gently,
until the next camp is reached. This is located where the mass
of the north crest rams home hard against the bulk of the
mountain, on rocky shelves. The day is
crowned
by stupendous views over the
glaciers below.
The top camp will
give you an even greater sense of the world below your feet. The
ascent remains on broken ledges, but these are easy with shale
and scree interlacing between them until snow runnels give out
onto the north face proper. Once clear of the rocks and on more
open slopes, you turn directly upwards, to arrive at the final
camp at about 8,300-metres.
Summit day
begins before mid-night! Leaving the tents in the still of the
night, your headlamps shine up to pierce the darkness and
illuminate a faint gully that leads to the crest above. This
line through the rocks is steeper than the traverse one the day
before, but the fixed ropes help lift you continue towards the
skyline. Some scrambling, accompanied by a disproportionate
amount of panting, will land you on the crest at over 8,500-
metres. The only thing now between you and the top, is about 400
metres of ascent, 3 rock steps and over a kilometre of crest -
the ultimate tightrope! As dawn breaks, you will see the awesome
Kangshung Face falling off to your left - a mind-boggling drop
in to Tibet. For the main part, you remain on the right flank
and traverse easily in places, but the route is punctuated by
the First, Second and Third Steps. The hardest of these is the
Second, which has a ladder and fixed rope to allow an ascent,
which would be virtually impossible otherwise. Additionally, you
can expect an airy traverse route to conquer the summit.
Finally, the mountain yields, and the final summit snowfield,
that you had seen from miles below will come under your feet and
herald your arrival to the Top of the World. |
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Day 57: |
Team members walk to base camp |
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Day 58: |
Packing personal equipment at base camp |
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Day 59: |
Depart base
camp and drive to Xangmu
We undo our remarkable road journey across
the Tibetan plateau. We overnight in a hotel, at Xangmu, ready
to cross back into Nepal at first light. |
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Day 60: |
Drive Zangmu to Kathmandu
Once back to Kathmandu, Extreme summit team
will host an evening barbecue to celebrate the expedition and as
a farewell party to thank the Sherpas for their support and
friendship. |
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Day 61: |
At leisure in Kathmandu |
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Day 62: |
Homebound flight departures |
The price includes:
Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu in
tourist standard hotel on B/B in twin sharing basis,Major meals during
Kathmandu stay, custom clearance, high altitude Sherpa, Sherpa with
equipment, daily wages and insurance, 01 cook, 02 kitchen boy at base
camp, base camp tents, high camps tents, dining tent,communication
tent,Internet, table and chairs, base camp food,high camps food, 01 cook
and o2 kitchen boy at ABC, hotel accommodation in Tibet en route on full
board basis, transportation Kathmandu-Zangbu-BC-Zangbu-Kathmandu,
yaks: Chinese base camp to ABC- 03 yaks per clients and return 02 yaks
per clients, peak permit fee, liaison officer, road maintenance fee,
Chinese visa, Oxygen cylinder from C1 (7150m)- North cool, to the summit
and back,The new Oxygen mask (TopOut), Mountain guide, Radio
communications...etc
Not
Included:
Medical and personal high risk
insurance, international air ticket, Nepal re-entry visa fee, airport
departure tax, telephone and laundry, alcoholic beverages and item of a
purely personal nature etc.
Contact: All information are available in
extremesummit@gmail.com
Leader of the expedition: Dragan Jacimovic, Extreme Summit Team
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