16.11.2007
And now some
spectacle! Guys are back in base camp. While adrenalin is
running high, they’ll try to describe their climbing. As far
as I see, they are in good mood asking questions about Chang
(an alcoholic drink made of rise). We are leaving base camp
and going to Namche Bazar tomorrow. My friend Dawa is
waiting for us. He managed to get hold of 5 litre of red
wine saying that such success has to be celebrated! Let’s
hope we’ll survive J.
Dragan Jacimovic
The Expedition Leader
Since I also took
part, it is my turn to say few words. It was hard as usual,
otherwise I would have never come to do it and hence written
these words. Sejo would have said: “You and I are
masochists”. The entire thing could be seen in photographs
except smells that only experienced alpinists can recognise
and appreciate. So much from me.
Haris
Kalajdzisalihovic
The Expedition Member
If I have two lives I
would use bought right now. I have survived the night in C2
that was a real mess. People kept moaning and throwing up
the entire night. Nevertheless, the moment one gets back to
base camp and tastes some Chang all troubles are forgotten.
I suppose, it will take some days before I manage to
appreciate this achievement.
Sime Grdovic
The Expedition Member
I wasn’t planning it,
I swear! It seems that one cannot run away from the
destinyJ. We’ll talk when I get back. It was difficult
climbing. I had enough time to think about so many things
during sleepless nights in C2 and C3. The most important is
that we climbed down alive and in good health (in a relative
way). Cannot wait to get home. Ama Dablam is great
experience and cannot be described in a single report.
Thanks to all who supported us. Hope we didn’t disappoint
you.
PS. Flags zone2000, No
Limit and NPA got to the top. Gaga+Arlet is written in the
snow.
Kenan Muftic
The Expedition Member
It is somewhat early
to talk about latest experience. Emotions are still running
high. So far I can only say that this is huge and beautiful
but also hard experience. I would only add that we owe very
many thanks to our Sherpa Lakhpa. CHEERS!
Nikola Djuric
The Expedition Member
15.11.2007 17.00h
(local time)
The celebration may
commence! Our guys are back in C2, melting snow, preparing
food, analysing climbing. Anybody happier than them right
now :-)? The last night I kept getting out of my tent.
Unusually quiet. No wind at all. In the sky, right from
Jupiter, a large meteor entering atmosphere burning while
heading towards the surface. Our ancestors would have said
‘good sign’.
Early moon phase
appeared. I remember that once, Lama from Pangboche
monastery said that early moon phase brings several good
weather days. I think he was right.
Guys woke up at about
4.30am. Getting the equipment on at such altitude isn’t easy
job. One gets breathless. Add crampons, belt, tools…
At about 5.30am
climbing commenced. While in shadow, they kept advancing
fast. When the snow started evaporating making breathing
more difficult, they slowed down. Kenan remained much
behind. For the moment, I thought that he was messing around
with the camera trying to catch every single detail. In
fact, something wasn’t right. We asked Lakhpa to wait for
him. It is much easier when one doesn’t climb alone and has
encouragement. As you already heard, one by one they made to
the top until noon. After short break, they turned back.
They had plenty of time and good weather to follow them so
decided to climb down straight to C2 rather than C3 as
planned. They’ll stay there tonight. This is closer to base
camp and better for good sleep too. We hope to hear all
their stories tomorrow and get plenty of photographs.
Azra volunteered and
pilled potato together with the cook Pasang Tembi today. She
says that we need to see at least some use of her since she
doesn’t know to climb :-). Pasang was trilled and announced
that Azra is going to be his assistant next year in ABC camp
at Everest!!
PS. Mike as you can
see in the photograph Pasang took over your girlfriend.
Think about it… You know what people say back home: “The one
who dares, wins!”
Dragan Jacimovic
The Expedition Leader
15.11.2007 12.00h
(local time)
Good morning my
countrymen. Time for good news J.
At 11.40am exactly,
Nikola called from the top!! He said that he had to enjoy
the view several minutes before deciding to get in touch.
By the way, Himalayan
sky is completely clear of clouds right now! Such days are
rare but do exist. One only needs to search for it.
While typing this,
Haris joined Nikola! Bravo! Sime is approximately 20 minutes
away. Lakhpa and Keno follow.
Dragan Jacimovic
The Expedition Leader
15.11.2007 11.00h
(local time)
Summit day has
commenced at about 5.30am. Weather was ideal. While in
shadow, advancing was more than fast. Then, the sun came out
and they slowed down. They have approximately 1 hour to the
top.
Dragan Jacimovic
The Expedition Leader
14.11.2007.
Snowing simply doesn’t
stop…
It started improving
last night but not enough to continue climbing. Just before
the dawn, it was perfect for climbing: cold, no clouds,
rising pressure…
However, new snow
represents danger in the mountain. This is especially when
the next day happens to be sunny. Inpatient climbers could
easily face potential avalanches. We decided to postpone
summit day. We had waited for the sun to do what had to be
done; then, our guys climbed the rest of the crest and at
about 15h reached C3 (6300m). They have more than 12h for
resting before they attempt the summit. Currently, we plan
it for tomorrow before the dawn. In fact, it is yet to be
seen. The weather is very unstable. Summit day decision
takes enormous responsibility. Patience please! If these
guys are patient and obey my commands, you who follow the
action via internet also should be. It is far less important
who was the first to get to the top. What really counts is
who MADE IT and WENT HOME SAFELY. Patience… I know that many
spent last night sleepless. I am sorry but the nature said
‘no’. Tomorrow is yet to be seen.
PS. Some celebrate
birthday parties today while some sleep on the ice at –
25°C. Life is made of choices…
Dragan Jacimovic
The Expedition Leader
13.11.2007
Lovely morning but not
everything started as planned. Azra has decided to return to
the base. One is not made of its potential but choice. I
believe that she could easily make it but sill have to
respect her decision. The rest of our team continued to
Yellow Tower (YT) at approximately 08h. Everything was fine
until they met Chinese climbers. They were so slow that our
guys remained stationary for almost two hours right under
the Yellow Tower! At about 14h Azra arrived to base camp and
Nikola sent good news from C2. They managed to go past
Chinese expedition but then lowed down clouds started
snowing. To continue towards C3 or to remain at C2, that was
the dilemma. Knowing that it gets dark at 17.30, we decided
to stay in C2 overnight. They have more than enough food and
gas. While talking on radio I was hearing background sounds
that certainly confirm good team spirit. Hare keeps
practicing voice for the next Euro-song! Just a bit louder
singing could well clear the sky off clouds J. Clear sky
tonight will give our guys green light to commence summit
day from C2 at about 02h local time.
PS. Many thanks for
your support. It means a lot in this situation…
Dragan Jacimovic
The Expedition Leader
12.11.2007.
Monday. Good day to
commence action. Clear and sunny day. Western wind has speed
of approximately 10km/h. Lakhpa has burnt Pudja for good
luck. Through smoke, I keep observing shiny Ama Dablam up
there in the sky. No doubt it deserves epithet of Himalayan
beauty. Our team is ready and in a good mood. Some positive
nervousness is obvious. Only Azra seems a bit scared. I
talked to her before they set off. It would be a pity that
somebody with her talents doesn’t make it due to some inner
‘fears’ (for which she cannot be hold responsible). I know
she can make it.
This time, climbing
from BC to C1 took a bit longer. This is for purpose due to
energy preservation. Southern clouds have risen in the
afternoon but not above 5500m. So far, everything seems to
be fine. Tomorrow, we continue to C3 (6300m). Perhaps, it is
going to be the most difficult climbing day. Nevertheless,
we feel ready to face temptations to come.
Dragan Jacimovic
The Expedition Leader
10-11.11.2007.
It was snowing on
Saturday but settled at about noon. The moment I saw sun
coming out I grabbed the opportunity to top up batteries for
radio, PC and satellite modem. We packed food and gas for
the summit day. The only remaining thing is waiting for
acceptable weather conditions. Sunday morning seemed
perfect. Completely clear sky. Temperature was slightly
lower (-10°C in the base) but this would make climbing after
C2 easier. Several sources confirmed that the weather is
going to be stable in the next days. Tomorrow we will set
off to C1. If everything works as planned, the day after
tomorrow we will be in C3 (6300m) and the summit day is
planned for Wednesday! However, the final say has the
Nature. We will be following signs.
PS. The team seems to
be quiet this evening. They are sighing only. This is why
I’ve sent Kami to Pangboche. I want him to bring old woman
that cures fear, in the morning!
Dragan Jacimovic
The Expedition Leader
09.11.2007
My dear Sherpa, look
after our building and put some effort to pay Trnko so that
we do not get bad reputation. Take out stones from Kenan’s
tent, patch it at the back and urgently send by DHL to
Nepal. We had some really bad weather today. Snow covered
fixed ropes. We are waiting for the sun to sort out our
trouble. Today, the leader of some British expedition run
into our camp searching for one of his members that got lost
on the way back from BC. Just to let you know, I haven’t
lost anyone, they regularly report to me and do not miss
anything. From today, they all started using Diamox as Dr
Arsle recommended…
Dragan Jacimovic
The Expedition Leader
We woke up at C1.
Sorry, some woke up while others didn’t sleep at all. My
mouth is as dry as Sahara regardless of consumed two litters
of melted snow. I feel woozy. Plan is to melt some snow and
set off towards C2. Azra decided to return to BC. Others are
continuing towards Yellow Tower. After approximately one our
climbing, Nikola observes dark clouds at some higher
altitude and discusses it with Lakhpa Sherpa. We also
realise that temperature keeps dropping which freezes
Nikola’s and Haris’ toes. We’ve climbed easier half and more
difficult one is still ahead. Nikola is right to decide that
we go back to base. It starts snowing. Stone blocks are
incredibly slippery. Sime nearly slipped. We all arrive to
base in one piece. Snowing continues. Things are getting
worse J.
Kenan Muftic
The Expedition Member
08.11.2007
Finally clear morning
sky. Team had breakfast, packed and set off to C1 (5800m).
They’ll stay there overnight. Lakhpa Sherpa also left with
them. They arrived there at approximately 03pm. They all
feel well and have no problems at high altitude. Plan for
tomorrow is to get to C2 (6100m) and then to return to base
camp in the afternoon. One of them will write the next
report. We hope for plenty of good photos.
Dragan Jacimovic
The Expedition Leader
07.11.2007
One more day spent in
base camp. Again thick clouds followed by snowing. Nothing
special happened except that we got into a mood for singing
in the evening again. Of course that made our Sherpas very
happy indeed! We learnt that the weather will get better
soon. It is yet to be seen. It is the nature that makes our
climbing plan. We just have to remain flexible and adjust
accordingly. Most incoming satellite phone messages come
from Sarajevo. I send many thanks in the name of all
expedition members.
Dragan Jacimovic
The Expedition Leader
06.11.2007.
It has begun. We
climbed to C1 to acclimatize. Altitudes given at the web are
inaccurate. ABC is lifted to 5400m and C1 is at 5800m.
Again, personal record J. The last segment next to C1 is
along the rope. Our tents are situated behind the rock at
which there is a camp. The place seems to be too good. We
are a bit far away from others. Tents are hung in the air.
Entrance is from the rope crossroad towards Yellow Tower
taking turn to the left. We brought the entire climbing
equipment to C1. We had false information that C1 is one
hour away from ABC but it took us three hours. It means that
we could well be caught by the dark. We arrived to BC at
18.30h. The Leader already started worrying. Nothing new to
me. I have never felt better at 5800m.
Muftic Kenan
The Expedition Member
05.11.2007
Due to clouds above
Mingbo we decided to have rest in the camp today. There was
no sunlight to charge batteries but somehow we managed in
the neighborhood. Team had sport day in the camp. First,
Shime designed a combination for a ballot game at the local
field and of course kept winning. Then, Nikola improvised
football using couple of socks and some adhesive tape. Due
to current altitude one is forced to have a break every few
minutes to take some breath! Sherpa Lakhpa joined them and
of course didn’t have to take break since he was born here.
Evening was an exciting one. We kept singing loudly which
attracted all our Sherpas and the cook Pasang Temba.
Dragan Jacimovic
The Expedition Leader
04.11.2007
Today, we woke up a
bit earlier. Tents were frozen outside due to weather
getting colder day after day. On the other hand, solid snow
is good for climbing and this makes us happy. We left base
camp at 9am with the aim to get to the middle camp at 5400m.
Beautiful day contributed to the fact that we walked quite
fast and in just three hours done 900m in altitude. Good
team makes everything simple. Immediately after we had
reached the desired height, we left the equipment in the
tent and started climbing down to the base camp. On the way
down, we were caught in some clouds and winds but nothing
serious. There are some problems with solar panels due to
cloudy weather immediately after 1pm but somehow we manage.
Next time when I plan food for the expedition, I’ll count
Haris as two people! He doesn’t mind Nepal food regardless
of the fact that he hasn’t been here before.
Dragan Jacimovic
The Expedition Leader
03.11.2007
Several people woke up
before the sunrise. Breakfast follow the sunrise. I feel
excellent, like being at home here at base camp at 4650m.
The only difference is consumption of a lot more water and
going to the toilet a lot more often. Preparing the
equipment was completed before the lunch. We are ready to
climb.
Haris
Kalajdzisalihovic
The Expedition Member
03.11.2007
Nothing could be
compared to the sunny morning outside the tent. You get out
to stretch and the sun tease out smile on your face. First
thing one see, of course is Ama Dablam. While Serdjo and I
kept preparing solar panels and other equipment needed for
normal functioning at base camp others spread the entire
equipment in front of the tents for check up before it is
taken to the route. Battery charging got interrupted by
clouds from the valley at noon. Nevertheless, we managed to
charge PC and satellite modem batteries, so you will get new
photos and reports. Shime hasn’t started taking Diamox and
asked if his climb is worth double providing he continues
without! We spent evening talking and analyzing climbing to
come. In fact, it looked more like my monologue and
answering questions.
Dragan Jacimovic
The Expedition Leader
02.11.2007
Here in Himalaya I
have experienced something first time. We returned to
Pangboche with trekking group that remained with us during
aclimatisation. After we shared tea, they were supposed to
continue towards Namche Bazar and us to the left across the
river Imja Khola up the hill towards base camp. However,
tears and emotions simply didn’t let us separate!
Being touched by seen
and experienced some refused to go home. After this
‘ceremony’, we almost shot out towards BC like we could not
wait to commence climbing Ama Dablam icy rock. The wind blew
through us a bit and temperature dropped significantly.
Sherpas had arrived to the base camp before us and assembled
complete equipment. Evening was even more freezing and we
had to unpack feather jackets. Tonight, we finally sleep in
tents and sleeping bags.
Dragan Jacimovic
The Expedition Leader
01.11.2007
We woke up somewhat
earlier. After portion of porridge, we set off towards
Nangar Tsang. This is trekking peak situated above Dingboche
village. Our somewhat improved mood since yesterday made
1000m climb up much less difficult. On the way back we
dropped in at Dingboche for a lunch. In the afternoon, while
returning to Orsho, temperature beginning to drop sharply. I
hope the weather will remain stable in days to come.
Tomorrow we are setting off to the base camp, which
officially starts the expedition. Sleeping in the lodge will
be replaced by sleeping in tents. We cannot wait for
climbing to commence since we are fed up with walking across
Khumbu region.
Dragan Jacimovic,
expedition leader
31.10.2007
Plan was to remain in
Orsho for two days for the sake of good aclimatisation.
We’ve climbed Taboche Peak (6501m) to the snow limit today.
We got to 5000mwhich is 900m above the lodge. More than
enough for aclimatisation. We thoroughly enjoyed viewing
surrounding Lhotce, Island Peak, Makalu, Ama Dablam,
Kangtega, Thamserku and Kwangde stone above Namche Bazaar.
We could clearly see our route at Ama Dablam. The snow seems
solid. Due to last year tragedy, C3 is removed to the right
towards the stone. This is to avoid eventual avalanches.
Afternoon sky got covered by clouds that came from the south
again. These are products of vaporization in the valley. In
the evening, the sky is cleared again opening the entire
Himalayan sky packed up by so many stars.
Dragan Jacimovic,
expedition leader
30.10.2007
Washing face at
Deboche spring definitely wakes one up. This is why I really
like it. The water is as ice cold but it feels good. It took
us three hours to get to Orsho where we intend to stay for
two days because of aclimatisation. In the afternoon, after
we had finished our lunch we went for some climbing. Next to
lodge, we thoroughly enjoyed several boulders right until
dark. Like children at the cherry three. Tonight we sleep
next to summit that we will soon climb. People seem to be a
bit inpatient. Watching the beauty through the window makes
the feeling understandable.
Dragan Jacimovic,
expedition leader
29.10.2007
After we had our
climbing permits checked we continued towards Tengboche
monastery. There, we met several Japanese with huge tele-objectives
hunting the most suitable moment to capture Everest or Ama
Dablam. In rhododendron forest, bellow our current position
Deboche village is situated. We are going to spend the night
there. Clouds got lower in the afternoon so we spent time
playing ‘interesting geography in the lodge. If I had died
yesterday, I would not have learnt that ‘tree stump’ is type
of plant and Vardar is the mountain! We had other ideas too
that made us laugh as crazy.
Dragan Jacimovic,
expedition leader
